Warp and Weft: The Two Threads of Every Cloth
Run your finger across a plain cotton shirt, and look carefully at the surface. If you could magnify it, you would see two sets of threads crossing each other at right angles, like a tiny basket. This is woven cloth, and every piece of it is built from two kinds of thread called the warp and the weft.
The warp threads run lengthwise and are stretched tight on a frame called a loom. They stay in place the entire time. The weft threads travel across, passing over some warp threads and under others. After each pass, the weaver pushes the new row snugly against the one before, so the rows pack together into a firm fabric.
The simplest pattern is called a plain weave, where the weft goes over one warp thread, under the next, and so on, switching on each row. Other patterns come from changing the order. If the weft skips over several warp threads at a time, the cloth gets a diagonal ridge, as in denim. Weavers who change the colors of the threads can form stripes, checks and pictures.
Long ago, passing the weft through by hand was a slow job. Weavers invented a shuttle, a small tool that carries the thread and slides smoothly through the gap. Later, machines took over and could work far faster, though the basic idea stayed the same. A handwoven scarf and a factory-made towel share the same structure.
Understanding warp and weft helps explain why cloth behaves as it does. Fabric stretches least along the threads and gives the most when pulled at an angle, which is one reason tailors often cut pieces along a slant.