Soy Milk Sets Into Tofu
Tofu looks plain, but making it is a small science project. It begins with dried soybeans, which are soaked in water until they are plump. Then the beans are ground with fresh water into a thick, pale mash. The mash is heated and strained, and what pours through is soy milk. The leftover pulp stays behind in the cloth.
At this point the soy milk is still a liquid. To turn it into something solid, the maker stirs in a coagulant. One traditional choice is nigari, a mineral mixture that is left when salt is taken from seawater. Another is a calcium salt called gypsum. Either one makes the proteins in the milk clump together.
The clumps are called curds, and they float in a thin yellow liquid. This is much like the way milk separates when cheese is made. The curds are gently scooped into a mold lined with cloth. Weight is placed on top to press out the extra liquid.
How long the tofu is pressed decides what it becomes. A short press leaves a soft, wobbly block that is nearly like pudding. A long press squeezes out more water and makes a firm block that holds its shape in a hot pan. People in East Asia have been making tofu for many centuries, and it is now eaten all over the world.