Cabbage That Sours Itself in a Crock
Sauerkraut starts with just two ingredients: shredded cabbage and salt. There is no vinegar and no cooking. Yet after a week or two in a crock, the pale shreds turn tangy and sour. The change is done by living things too small to see.
First, the cook mixes the salt into the cabbage and squeezes it with clean hands. Salt pulls water out of the leaves, and soon the cabbage is sitting in its own salty liquid, called brine. The shreds are pressed down and weighted so that they stay under the brine.
That step matters because of air. Under the liquid there is very little oxygen, and a kind of bacteria that does not need oxygen can thrive there. These lactic acid bacteria were already living on the cabbage leaves. They eat the natural sugars in the cabbage and make lactic acid, the same sour-tasting acid found in yogurt. The acid gives the sauerkraut its tang, and it also makes the crock a hard place for spoiling germs to live.
This process is called fermentation. Cooler rooms make it slower, and warmer rooms make it faster. When the taste is right, the crock goes into the refrigerator, where the change slows almost to a stop.